I have certain dishes in favourite restaurants that are so bloody good, no matter what else is on the menu, I’ll always manage to find room to squeeze a cheeky one in somewhere. The slow cooked cauliflower in yoghurt at my favourite Bristol restaurant, Bell’s Diner is a cracking example.
Cauliflower, cooked down until almost creamy, then subtly spiced with coriander, cumin, garlic and chilli with a lovely tangy acidity from the yoghurt. Oh yeah. It’s phenomenal. Chef, Sam Sohn-Rethel, who very generously allowed me to reproduce his recipe here, based this dish on a cauliflower soup he used to cook during his time at Moro.
In the restaurant, it’s served as a tapas size portion, but I'm something of a lazy bastard and wanted to stretch it out for dinner, so dished it up, heaped on chargrilled sourdough. Lovely.
Slow cooked cauliflower with yoghurt
1 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed
1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
1 tsp mild chilli flakes
1 cauliflower, stalk and tough outer leaves removed
1 handful coriander leaves
1 egg yolk
½ tsp cornflour
500ml Greek yoghurt
Heat 100g of the butter in a saucepan and cook the onion until translucent.
Add the garlic, cumin, coriander seeds and chilli and cook for another five minutes.
Finely chop the cauliflower along with the tender inner leaves, add them to the pan and season with plenty of salt.
Finely chop 2/3rds of the coriander leaves and stir into the cauliflower.
Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid and continue cooking over a gentle heat until the cauliflower is completely soft and cooked down to a mush.
Beat together the egg yolk, cornflower and yoghurt then add the mixture to the pan and cook for five more minutes.
Check the seasoning and add more salt if needed.
Keep warm until ready to serve.
Heat the remaining 50g of butter in a small pan until it caramelises, as dark brown as you dare. Then pour it over the cauliflower.
Scatter over the remaining coriander leaves and serve.
Toasted breadcrumbs are a nice optional addition for a bit of texture.
Thanks again to Sam for allowing me use his recipe on the blog. I'm hoping to be able to wheedle/cajole/threaten/beg/blackmail recipes for a few more of my favourite dishes out of my regular restaurant haunts very soon.
Watch this space, people.