skip to main |
skip to sidebar
Happy New Year to all (three) of my readers, and Happy Birthday to Essex Eating. That’s right, the blog I started in January 2009 (The only New Year’s Eve resolution I’ve ever actually kept!) is two years old today. Tres exciting!
And what a momentous year 2010 has been eh?
I started it off living in Essex, working in London, employed in I.T… and ended the year living and working in Bristol and employed in cheese mongering. (I’m still scratching my head trying to figure out how exactly that happened).
Along the way I started a supper club with ‘E’, ‘The Montpelier Basement’ which has been doing pretty well…. I cooked some lovely food (and some rubbish food), I met loads of nice people, and I ate in some amazing restaurants (and also some that weren’t so good).
So here it is – my best and worst of 2010…
Best Food Blog event I attended in 2010
Without a doubt the best event for food bloggers I attended in 2010 was vodka tasting at Bob Bob Ricard. To sit in the private room, eating excellent food all matched with vodka ranging from reasonably priced to eye wateringly expensive with the charming and debonair ‘Bob’ & ‘Ricard’ themselves, was a real treat. Despite ending the evening thoroughly drunk, I left learning a few things about vodka and with a real appreciation for BBR. I’ve since been back a few times at it never ceases to charm and amaze me. It remains one of my favourite restaurants in London.
Best meal I ate in 2010
Tough one, I ate out loads in 2010. But I finally made it to The Ledbury in December for my birthday (‘E’s treat) and it was amazing (I’ve yet to write it up here on the blog, but it’s coming). The food was exquisite, beautifully put together, incredible to look at and exciting to eat. The tasting menu at Cinq Sentits in Barcelona was equally jaw dropping, so much so, that to be honest – I’d find it hard to pick one over the other. Although saying that, I had an amazing boozy lunch at the new Hawksmoor in seven dials with ‘E’ and Niamh from ‘Eat like a girl’ which for me was a really memorable meal for completely different reasons. Although it’s not quite in the same Michelin starred bracket as the previously mentioned restaurants, it was a hell of a lot of fun, the Kimchi burger was awesome, and the cocktails left me practically crawling out of the place on my hands and knees.
Best Dish I cooked at home 2010
loads of home cooking this past year (Although I don’t seem to write about is much as I did last year). I think Stevie Parle’s Chana Masala from ‘My Kitchen – Real food from near and far’ was certainly a revelation when it comes to simple, home cooked food. The book was left on the shelf for so long, but when I finally had a read and cooked this dish from it…its bloody amazing and dirt-cheap too. It’s become a firm favourite. But I’m probably most proud of some of the dishes we’ve cooked for The Montpelier Basement, not just because they were nice, but also because to cook and serve up pretty good food on a fairly large scale whilst under pressure feels like such an achievement. I particularly liked the Baked Cornish haddock with pumpkin crust, leeks and white wine sauce; it was perfectly cooked, tasted incredible and looked so neat and professional. On the other hand bavette with triple cooked chips and béarnaise for 17 was cracking as it involved so much last minute work to produce and obviously béarnaise is notorious for splitting, if you just look at it the wrong way, but it all came out really well. (No photo of this I'm afraid, was just too damn busy at the time to get one!)I’m really proud of so much of the food we’ve cooked.
Worst Dish I cooked at home 2010
I was struggling to remember, perhaps it’s been a vintage year with regards to home cooking this past 12 months, and then suddenly it hit me. Barbecued sweetcorn with anchovy butter. It was bloody awful – truly foul. OK, it was a mistake. We forgot that the ‘herb’ butter leftover in the fridge had anchovy in it. But nevertheless, bleugh! (I think the bullet point here is – anchovy and sweetcorn = No).
It’s all coming flooding back now, ‘poached cherries with almond cream’ from the Moro cookbook failed entirely. I think I put too much liquid in whilst making the almond cream, and instead of just binning it and starting again (the ingredients cost money right? AND I was making dinner to impress ‘E’) I tried to save it with all the culinary cunning that I possess. Needless to say it remained a grainy inedible ‘soup’ and I ended up throwing it all away.
Best Booze I drank in 2010
Sadly, I often don’t remember what I drink whilst eating out. I think it’s something I should pay more attention to. I’ll try and remedy that on the blog in 2011. Nevertheless, the whole wine list at The Gurnards Head in Cornwall stands out as being memorable for the fact that it’s so good combined with being awesomely cheap (their lack of any real marking up is to be applauded). A bottle of Picpoul De Pinet we had at Source Food Café matched with crab was bloody good. Oh, and the whole cocktail list at Hawksmoor is bloody awesome, beautifully researched and interesting. Finally, in December a bottle of Rodenbach beer matched with excellent Pheasant at The Draft House Tower Bridge was certainly a surprising booze combination that worked beautifully
Worst Dish I ate out 2010
It pains me to say it, as I love, love, love The Ginger Pig and The Ginger Fox, but back in June their Brighton based newly opened, red-headed stepbrother The Ginger Dog provided one of the worst dishes I ate in 2010. Un-set freezing cold potted rabbit which I described at the time as “Meaty chunks of rabbit and vegetables swam past grimly, like survivors from a shipwreck as I plunged my spoon into in a sea of freezing cold, barely gelatinous fluid.” And “This wasn’t just a solitary errant miss, my dining companion “Mr Graphic Foodie” had ordered the same dish, and his rabbit was equally awash within a sea of arctic, jizzmesque liquid slipperyness.”
Here’s hoping this was just a 'bad night' and things have improved since then.
Another contender would have to be a fried quail with peaches starter I ate at the Gordon Ramsay Gastro-Pub, The Warrington (So Kentucky fried quail yeah?). It was bloody awful, thickly coated in breadcrumbs with the delicate meat completely lost within, it just didn't work at all, it ate like deep deep fried bones basically...and from memory it was something like twelve frigging quid!! God knows why I chose it.
Best Dish I ate out in 2010
This is really hard, but The Restaurant at ‘St Pauls’ certainly served up the best dessert I ate in the shape of their stonkingly good ‘Regents Park Honey Ice and Gingerbread Sandwich’ Although saying that, on the dessert front the incredibly moist ‘Rhubarb and ginger Bakewell’ I was served at St Werburghs City Farm in Bristol was almost equally as good. A starter of ‘Lyme Bay scallops with garlic and white port roasted in the shell over the charcoal fire’ I ate at The Seahorse in Dartmouth back in March was frankly amazing too and the Raviolo of Beef Short Rib with Cep consommé, Truffle and Parmesan I ate at The Ledbury in December has to be up there. But, wracking my minuscule brain it’s the simpler pleasure of a beautifully cooked pheasant with all the trimmings, eaten with thick snow visible on the ground outside whilst in the warm at The Draft House Tower Bridge in London that stands out as the best thing I ate last year. It truly was sublime, even the accompanying sprouts were awesome.
Weirdest Google searches that have led to my Blog 2010
Car Sick South Cornwall
Hiring a bodyguard in buenos aires
How do i cook pock cheak
Places in essex that sell fernet branca
Scotch egg heat supermarket
Small petite porn tube
Best Recipe book 2010
I guess the cookbook I’ve most enjoyed this year has been Stevie Parle’s ‘My Kitchen – Real food from near and far’ Most of the more exotic dishes have been new to me, the book is quite a fresh exciting mish-mash of this and that. And the recipes have produced excellent results.
On a different note – despite featuring many, many…many photos of a disturbingly hobbit’esque Tom Kitchin relaxing in various states of outdoor garb, holding dead animals and trying to look sincere, but instead looking smug (there’s even a picture of him in a frigging diving suit for crissakes!) His book ‘From nature to plate’ is cracking, I’ve cooked a few recipes from it and they’ve turned out really well.
Oh, and despite knocking out some bloody awful formulaic, bandwagon jumping recipe books in the last couple of years, Gordon Ramsay’s 'Great British Pub food' is a surprisingly brilliant one featuring loads of useful recipes for cheap meat cuts such as ox and pork cheek. I highly recommend it.
Strangest things I ate in 2010
Basically a whole years worth of strangeness in one meal at Chilli Cool (Intestines, ears, tendons to name but a few body parts on the menu) and Duck Hearts (again) at Southville Supper club in Bristol (although not so strange I guess the second time around, and once again – bloody tasty) and finally, jellied pigs head at St Johns Tavern in Archway.
Must visit restaurants 2010
This is last years list, and I’ve only really crossed one off (The Ledbury) apart from that I’ve drank at Terroirs, Hix & Rules (All on numerous occasions but no food). Eaten the famously good Scotch Egg at The Harwood Arms (but nothing else) and the rest of the list has been errrr….pretty much bypassed entirely.
Anchor and Hope
Terroirs
The Ledbury
The Bull and Last
Racine
The Sportsman - Whitstable
The Kitchin - Edinburgh
Hix
Harwood Arms
Rules
Theo Randall
The King is dead, long live the king!
My new, sexy updated must visit restaurant list for 2011 reads like this….
Anchor and Hope - London
Racine - London
The Sportsman - Whitstable
The Kitchin - Edinburgh
Magdalen Arms – Oxford
Brawn – London
Casamia – Bristol
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal – London
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road – London
St Johns
So that’s it, my second year here at Essex Eating.
Here’s to an exciting third year in 2011. ‘The Montpelier Basement’ should feature heavily as ‘E’ and I move on with that. We’ve had some very interesting offers, and we’ll see where it all leads. I of course will continue to eat out as much as I can afford. And talking of money, (after being made redundant in 2010) I guess I should find a real job – hopefully something involving food.
All offers gratefully considered!
So, stay tuned in 2011 for more of the same.
PS Don’t forget to comment. I love a comment me, doesn’t matter if it’s good or bad. It’s the thought that counts…. or something.
Mwah Mwah
Dan
Essex Eating
I’ve always liked cheese. I’ve eaten it for nearly all of my life, although if I’m truly honest most of it has been processed, factory made crap. The proper rubbery, dayglo yellow rubbish. Rarely have I had the opportunity to sample the really good stuff, and even when I did – I didn’t really know what I was eating. I appreciated it, yes. But I’d never go out of my way to procure it, or consider it as an option on a restaurant menu. But finally, my eyes have been opened. I recently started working for Trethowan’s Dairy, selling their own Gorwydd Caerphilly and other fantastic British (and some French) cheeses for Christmas in the Bristol Harvey Nichols food hall pop-up.
It’s been an incredible learning opportunity, and I’ve grasped it with both hands. (Thanks Todd, Jess and Ben).
I wanted to post this before Christmas when, as is traditional, many of you would be buying huge slabs of cheese. Sadly I was just too damn busy actually selling the stuff to finish the post. Nevertheless, this information will still be valid all year round, therefore let me share with you what I’ve learnt.
So without further ado…Essex Eating does cheese. *Fanfare*
First of all, for the most part, forget pasteurised. Unpasteurised is where it’s at with regards to cheese. All of that which really makes a cheese unique, interesting and tasty is lost when made with pasteurised milk. (Pasteurised milk, in case you’re nodding wisely, but in reality have no idea what I’m talking about, is where the milk is heated to a certain temperature to kill off any potentially harmful bacteria present, but.... there’s bacteria which as it develops gives a good cheese it’s flavour and this is also lost).
Every batch of unpasteurised cheese has to be tested to ensure it’s safe to eat. This is not the case with pasteurised cheese, so in fact in theory it’s actually potentially dodgier. (But saying that, just to be on the safe side - add unpasteurised cheese to the whole list of things you shouldn’t eat if you’re pregnant).
Next, buy your cheese from a cheesemonger, or failing that a delicatessen. I don’t know why it is, but most supermarkets seem incapable of selling cheese in decent condition. If you have the choice, buy your cheese from a specialist.
British cheese is fantastic. There has been a real renaissance in the past 20 years or so, and there are loads of unbelievably good regional handmade, unpasteurised products. Real artisan stuff. Don’t let anyone tell you Britain doesn’t make good cheese. Ours is some of the best anywhere in the world.
So, you’ve got your lump of expensive, tasty, artisan cheese. How long will it last? And how to keep it?
Unpasteurised cheese is a bit like fruit, there’s no expiry date on it. So treat it the same way, if it looks manky – it probably is. If it looks good, it’s no doubt fine. Trust your sense of smell and taste. In any case, it’ll probably dry out before it ‘goes off’.
Store your cheese, believe it or not – in the salad drawer at the bottom of the fridge, or as close to the bottom of the fridge as possible, but away from any strong flavours (such as onions).
In addition, if your cheese came wrapped in waxed paper – then make sure it’s re-wrapped again before storing it. Cheese left uncovered in a fridge will dry out quicker than a Jacobs cracker wrapped in loft insulation and left to fend for itself in the Sahara desert.
If the cheese has a naturally ‘mouldy rind’ then in addition to keeping it wrapped in waxed paper, clingfilm the cut edges, but only the cut edges mind. The cheese breathes through the rind; it’ll keep so much better if you do this.
Although saying that, some cheeses (such as Gorwydd Caerphilly washed rind or Parmesan) actually benefit from being wrapped in clingfilm, so make sure to ask your cheesemonger on how best to store your no doubt eye wateringly expensive, (but worth it) lump of dairy.
What cheese should you buy?
Well based on what I’ve been selling (and sampling) here’s my selection. Mostly British. All unpasteurised and all handmade.
Stichelton
This is one of my favourites. Made from organic milk on the Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire, it’s the only unpasteurised Stilton you can buy (but they can’t call it Stilton…. long story). This is a beautiful cheese, incredibly creamy and flavoursome. I love it. You can eat the rind on this; it has an interesting salty, ‘biscuity’ texture.
Gorwydd Caerphilly
My employer’s own cheese and it’s absolutely superb. Handmade using traditional methods on the Treothowan’s farm in Llanddewi Brefi in Wales. It has a subtle, rich, buttery taste with a slight bite. The breakdown at the edge is almost Brie like, and you can eat the rind – in fact you should eat it. It has a raw mushroom taste to it and really adds a nice contrast to the other flavours. A really classic British cheese, I can’t get enough of it. (BTW it’s also sold at Neals Yard and on a stall in London’s Borough Market itself – keep an eye out for it and have a taste, it’s impossible not to like).
Vacherin Mont D’or
The French and the Swiss argue over who owns this cheese and both produce it. Made from unpasteurised winter milk, and only available from around September until March. I was gifted one of these to try over Christmas (thanks Todd). As is traditional, you prick the top with a fork, insert some garlic and pour over a splash of white wine. Wrap the whole wooden box in foil and baked in the oven until it becomes liquid, almost like fondue. Oh my God, it was amazing…. seriously decadent, rich and grown up smeared on crusty bread with some cornichons. It really is something you should try. These retail for around £12, but will serve at least four people.
Comte
The Comte we sell is considered to be ‘The Best’. It’s Marcel Petite Reserve. And, it’s fantastic. Full stop. With an incredibly rich taste, buttery but with complex grassy flavours, it’s probably the nicest cheese I’ve ever tried. We gave out samplers of this, and what was amazing to me is seeing people’s reaction as they absentmindedly picked a piece up on their way past the counter, and then stopped, gobsmacked for a double take on what exactly they’d just eaten. The reason it tastes so buttery and grassy? It’s made from the summer milk of cows that graze in high alpine pastures, and their diet includes a high proportion of herbs and flowers. It’s an amazing cheese and one that I would go out of my way to buy despite it being pretty damn expensive.
Tunworth
A British Camembert ‘style’ cheese, from Hampshire. This is cracking stuff. To be honest, I didn’t like it much at first, but it really grew on me and I ended up a big fan. The tasting notes often say it has something of a 'cabbage' taste, but I don't get this. I think it has a fresh, almost spring onion and wild garlic pungency to it with a delicate soft texture.
Ragstone
A mature goats’ cheese log produced by Neal’s Yard Creamery in Herefordshire. If you like goats’ cheese, you’ll love this. Strongly flavoured with a real lemon tang to it. Personally, I find this cheese a bit too ‘goaty’ for my liking, preferring instead its stablemate below…
Dorstone
Also produced by Neal’s Yard Creamery, this is an extremely young goats cheese. In fact, so young it’s coated in vegetable ash to make it easier to handle. These are fresh, almost mousse like in consistency and also have a real lemony tangy flavour. I really like these and I'm especially taken with their gnarled, unusual looking exterior appearance.
Keen’s Cheddar
In the summer I was lucky enough to be taken along for a visit and shown around Moorhayes Farm in Somerset by George Keen himself. The Keens make a classic British Cheddar. It’s a million miles away from the processed blocks of rubberised, tasteless junk you’ll see on most supermarket shelves. This is the real deal; handmade, cloth wrapped and produced using traditional methods. This cheese has a real depth of flavour, but is quite fresh tasting with a ‘bite’. It’s lovely stuff.
Montgomery’s Cheddar
Another classic British Cheddar, also from Somerset, also handmade, cloth wrapped and produced using traditional methods. But, and this is the interesting thing – tasting completely different to Keen’s. Montgomery has an earthier, nuttier taste to it with really complex flavours. It’s quite strong and punchy, but in a rather subtle, subdued way. It has such depth of flavour you can still taste it a good few minutes after eating a piece. I reckon this would be a lovely cheese accompanied by a glass of red wine or port.
Old Demdike
Yet another cracking Somerset cheese, and named after a particularly loathsome witch. Unlike the rest of the cheeses I’ve listed, Old Demdike is made using vegetable rennet and is therefore suitable for vegetarians (although I’ve found that some veggies aren’t particularly bothered by the whole rennet thing). This is Ewe’s milk cheese, and I think it looks amazing, being almost stone-like in appearance. It has a subtle, sweet almost nutty taste. I like it a lot.
So, there you have it, “the stuff what I learnt”.
I now have a real appreciation of quality cheese, and a real sense of what makes good cheese worth paying that bit extra for. I also have been left with a newfound awareness of all the amazing artisan British cheeses that are being produced out there, with real love and much care. Long may it continue.
When Toptable recently asked me to provide them with a list of my top 10 favourite restaurants of 2010, I thought it would be fairly short easy exercise. In fact it took me bloody ages and involved much furious scribbling (mainly in crayon) fevered bad tempered arguments (with myself) and even some howling.
It was a surprisingly traumatic experience.
As dawn broke, I awoke on the kitchen floor... naked and clutching a screwed up piece of paper containing the following list.
These may not be the best, or the most achingly hip or the newest kids on the block - but I liked them, and they all provided a frigging amazing food experience. I'd visit any of them again in a heartbeat.
So, here it is, my top 10 of 2010.
Spot on? or don't know my arse from my elbow? let me know what you think...
Oh, and if you follow this link - you'll find a load of other lovely and talented food bloggers listing their favourites as well.
Bob Bob Ricard
1 Upper James Street, Soho, London, W1F 9DE
Fabulously eccentric and glamorous, BBR is in a league of its own when it comes to sheer bonkers opulence, even the toilets are incredible. A unique menu of Edwardian nursery food, Russian dishes and international classics. It’s the craziest menu I’ve ever seen. What’s even crazier is, it works beautifully.
The Restaurant at St Paul's
St Paul's Churchyard, London, EC4M 8AD
If you ever take visitors to lunch in London and want them to experience somewhere really British and the beautiful ingredients this island has to offer...take them here, and feel your heart swell with pride. The honey ice and gingerbread sandwich is a must.
The Gurnard's Head
Treen, St Ives, TR26 3DE
Perfect in every way. Beautifully cooked, locally sourced food, an incredible rugged location, a superb (and bargainous) wine list, cheery and friendly staff. It’s basically everything you want a British pub/restaurant to be.
Hawksmoor
157 Commercial Street, Aldgate, E1 6BJ or 11 Langley Street, London WC2H 9JG
Superb cocktails and top quality steaks. An innovative and eccentric British approach to breakfast/brunch and the best burger in London. Hawksmoor is one of my favourite restaurants anywhere. The new Covent Garden site and the kimchi burger have to be experienced.
The Seahorse Restaurant
5 South Embankment, Dartmouth, TQ6 9BH
Incredibly fresh seafood cooked brilliantly right on the Dartmouth quayside. It has the slick, lived in look of a restaurant that’s been around for years, but is relatively new. Almost worth making the trip to Devon for alone. A real treat.
Great Queen Street
32 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AA
Rustic seasonal food with a real British slant in a bustling Covent Garden restaurant. The emphasis is on shared platters. GQSt is consistently excellent. In particular the whole 7 hour roast shoulder of lamb and the rib of beef for two have to be experienced.
Polpo and Polpetto
41 Beak Street, London, W1F 9SB or upstairs at The French House, 49 Dean Street, London, W1D 5BG
Polpo and its newer, smaller Soho sibling Polpetto offer Venetian ‘baccaro’ style small plates in stylishly shabby and lively settings. The menus are fascinating in the kind of way where you want to order everything. We did.
Viajante
Patriot Square, London, E2 9NF
Incredibly interesting experimental food cooked by El Bulli trained Chef Nuno Mendez on the site of the former Bethnal Green town hall. The set menu has to be one of the best fine dining lunch bargains in London.
Chilli Cool
15 Leigh Street, London, WC1H 9EW
Incredible Szechuan food, heavy on the chillies with a real offal slant. Tendons, tripe and intestine all featuring on the menu, Chilli Cool is one of London’s ‘must do’ dining experiences. It’s also ridiculously cheap.The sea spicy aubergine is frigging amazing.
Lido Restaurant
Lido Spa, Oakfield Place, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2BJ
Eating Middle Eastern and Spanish inspired food whilst overlooking the renovated Victorian swimming baths is a unique experience. Ex Moro chef Freddy Bird serves up a stunning menu featuring a wood fired oven. The set lunch menu is a complete bargain. A must visit if in Bristol.
As long as I can remember, the idea of staying in an old-fashioned inn has appealed to me. Not for me the stark contemporary clean lines of a modern hotel. I want real character. I want to stay in cosy rooms above the pub, take my nightcap in the bar; waved off to bed by cheery, pipe smoking (no doubt bearded) regulars. Awake refreshed and eat a hearty breakfast by a flickering log fire whilst surveying the weather rolling in across the rugged moors outside. I also want to eat excellent British, seasonal food and drink fabulous booze. I want it. I want it all.
Sadly the reality so far just hasn’t delivered. It’s hard, actually almost impossible to find an inn that also has rooms, and isn’t charging extortionate prices and also, most importantly hasn’t been turned into a Weatherspoons.
But, gather close regular readers, that’s right huddle close and listen as I whisper dramatically, because I want to keep this amongst ourselves…. I’ve found it! It exists, and not only is it all that I dreamed of…. it’s more. Much more.
This dream of a pub is The Gurnards Head, and you’ll have to head to the far reaches of Cornwall, almost to Lands End to find it. But it’s there, and it’s bloody excellent.
To be fair, I’d heard mention of it from Browners of ‘Around Britain with a Paunch’ and come across it in Diana Henry’s excellent Gastropub Cookbook, Another Helping, but had filed it away in my ‘one day’ file.
So, you can imagine my delight and mounting excitement as the Cornish countryside flashed by outside, whilst driving there last Sunday week with friends Kate and Neil of Lahloo Tea, who had suggested accompanying them for a meal and one night’s stay to celebrate Kate’s Birthday.
Even the low groans, curses and moans from an amazingly car sick ‘E’ in the back couldn’t detract from my no doubt irritating cheeriness as The Gurnards Head ‘hove into view’ (Check out my crusty barnacled nautical speak!). Pirate style “Gaaaaahs” were certainly appropriate, as the inn is situated in beautifully rugged Cornish countryside, just a couple of minutes walk from breathtaking steep cliffs, and beyond that, the sea. As they say at The Gurnards Head ‘Next stop Newfoundland’. It really is perfect.
“Gaaaaah” groaned ‘E’ suddenly. But alas it wasn’t the almost obligatory Pirate speak. No. It was the sound of a desperately carsick passenger about to puke inside the car. Luckily, we had arrived just in time to avert disaster as we screeched to a halt stumbled, stiff legged, aching and in the case of ‘E’ puce coloured, out into the rather bracing coastal air and crunched our way across the gravel to the entrance.
Inside The Gurnards Head it was perfectly cosy, with a log fire lazily crackling and popping in the grate. Greeted warmly at the bar, we threw ourselves onto a cosy sofa and were offered complimentary tea, whilst we slowly recovered from the drive.
Twenty minutes later, having checked into our rooms, which are as you’d expect from the inn of my imagination were cosy and rustic (and with supremely soft beds), we assembled back downstairs for Sunday lunch in the restaurant.
We’d taken advantage of a ‘Sleepover’ deal, which included one nights Sunday stay, lunch, dinner and breakfast for…get this, £75 per person! Which is such a ridiculous bargain, encompassing as it does dining of such quality that I almost want to keep it to myself.
Seated and studying the lunch menu with ‘E’ having regained her composure somewhat, we briskly set about ordering food and booze.
Incredibly good, crumbly homemade soda bread was munched as we guzzled amazingly well priced and excellent wine served by the carafe.
My starter of Chicken Liver pate, Toast and Gherkins - despite being rather conventional - was beautifully executed, creamy and mousse like but with real depth of flavour. It was nicely done.
‘E’s plate of Red Wine braised Squid and Croutons was less conventional, and from the brief forkful I snatched of it, bloody amazing. ‘E’ now says it was one of the best things she ate all weekend.
Being by the sea and wanting to embrace all things aquatic (apart from great white sharks and perhaps box jellyfish) I’d uncharacteristically disregarded the Slow Rib of Beef and the Braised Lamb Shoulder and gone for Plaice with Fennel, New Potatoes and Citrus Beurre Blanc.
One word. Amazing.
Beautifully cooked fish with the almost toffee like, slowly caramelised fennel. The citrus beurre blanc cut through all of the other flavours, tasting fresh and sharp, like it should be doing you some real good with regards to health benefits. Dangerously tasty.
‘E’ had gone for the same dish and we were both extremely pleased and smug with ourselves as we ordered dessert.
I ordered the Fig and Almond Jalouise, (a kind of French strudel/turnover apparently) with hazelnut custard. It wasn’t bad actually, I’ve never been a massive fan of figs so any dish I like where they feature I’d mark up as a success. Not as jaw droppingly excellent as the plaice, but perfectly good.
‘E’ meanwhile had gone for the Chocolate Brownie with clotted cream. Which, considering she makes famously good brownies for a living was perhaps a tad unadventurous. But, also adds weight somewhat to her enthusiastic thumbs up when she said it was superb.
Throwing our napkins onto the table and surveying the beautiful sunlit and rugged but freezing countryside outside we decided as a group that the best course of action would be to change into stout walking gear and go for a walk along the cliffs to work off lunch. There being apparently an excellent pub, recommended by the owner of The Gurnards Head in a nearby village.
Up to this point in our relationship, ‘E’ had often regaled me with tales of her outdoorswoman prowess and skill. “When I was camping in Wales/The Lake District/New Forest etc etc etc.
Understandably therefore I had her down as a cross between Bear Grylls and Daniel Boon, in fact I think I half believed she’d killed a large wild animal with her bare hands once, and I’d followed her advice on sturdy footwear (Hiking Boots) and spare warm clothing to the letter.
‘E’ on the other hand had followed none of her own advice, no suitable footwear and no spare clothes. In fact, she’d decided to wear every piece of clothing she had brought for the weekend all at once, as she was cold. Alarm bells were faintly beginning to ring.
Meanwhile, Kate and Neil appeared looking like they’d been sponsored by Gore-Tex, clad in all the correct outdoor gear. I jealously think I spied some kind of Kevlar retractable walking stick.
We strode off relaxed, happy and confident down the lane behind the pub towards the cliff path and beyond, the sea….
An hour later our cheery outdoor walk had descended into the sort of trial of grim desperation last seen on the Bataan Death March. ‘E’s tales of outdoor prowess were, lets say exaggerated, as we struggled our way over boulders, down rugged, slippery cliff paths with sheer drops into the sea just feet away and up tiring steep inclines. It was starting to get dark. It was cold. We couldn’t see a village with a cheery pub anywhere in the distance. How could it get worse?
That’s right. ‘E’ could slide fully over in the mud due to her entirely unsuitable footwear and be absolutely caked from head to toe. Disaster enough you might think, remember she was wearing ALL of her weekend clothes. But what’s this? ‘E’ scrabbling for purchase, has managed to grab a spiky gorse bush…and then, get this…somehow stuck her face in it as well! So less Bear Grylls, more Norman Wisdom
Struggling on, tired muddy and in ‘E’s case, bloody we started to come across traces of civilisation, and finally The Tinners Arms pub in Zennor that proved to be so cheery, warm and welcoming that even ‘E’ forgot about her earlier misfortune. We returned to The Gurnards Head in high spirits via a less taxing county lane route.
After a power nap, a hot shower, and a change of clothes (apart from ‘E’ who had to borrow clothes from Kate) we assembled downstairs in the bar for dinner, refreshed and cheery. Interestingly, I think a factor in the relaxation may be the lack of any mobile signal in the area. No calls, no Twitter, no email…frustrating at first, but then freed of the 21st century shackles of being so constantly contactable and in touch it becomes strangely liberating to take such a complete break.
Additionally the extremely happy and relaxed attitude of the staff helps. Nothing is too much trouble and this relaxed attitude extends to the pricing of the drinks, which are ridiculously cheap. There’s nothing worse than staying somewhere and looking at the bar menu or the room service menu and knowing you daren’t order from it less you be utterly gouged. Not so here, it seems there’s not much of a mark up in evidence at all. It’s extremely unusual to be able to order drinks and not really worry too much about the cost.
We opted to eat dinner in the bar, at a cosy corner table.
Starting with the same excellent homemade soda bread we’d eaten at lunch, we sat and discussed what to order.
The menu has an enticing second section ‘The Kitchen Garden’ with a selection of dishes based around produce from The Gurnard Head’s own garden. I agonised over my choice, there being so much I wanted to eat, but in the end went for a Quail and Mushroom tartlet with Celeriac Puree and Mushroom Jus.
I have rarely ordered a decent quail dish, being so often disappointed that I’ve almost given up on it. But happily this last throw of the dice proved to be well worth it. Frigging superb, rich, moist and incredibly tasty. I was tres impressed.
Meanwhile, ‘E’ was eating a beautiful looking dish of Scallops with Pumpkin Puree and Parsley Tapenade. She was enthusiastic about the dish with her only criticism being that the tapenade was perhaps a bit too overpowering when competing against the delicate flavours of the other ingredients.
I’d gone for the Cornish Duck Breast, with Chervil Root, Chard and Darphin Potatoes, chosen because I hadn’t eaten duck for ages, and was intrigued by chervil root, which in the end proved to have a pleasant slightly aniseed taste. Overall it was a cracking plate of food, The duck being beautifully cooked with my only criticism that perhaps the portion of darphin potatoes was a bit large in relation to the other elements of the dish…which isn’t really much of a criticism is it?
Across the table ‘E’ was taking the worst food photo with her mobile that I’ve ever seen. She’d made her plate of Brill, Cauliflower and Shrimp gratin, fresh Vermicelli, White Wine velouté and Spinach look like someone had just thrown it up onto the plate. Nice eh?.
Luckily, I am incredibly skilful (and also ruggedly handsome, but I digress), and was on hand to do the dish some justice. ‘E’ absolutely loved the taste of the brill and the gratin, but wasn’t massively keen on the vermicelli, saying that she’d have preferred some potatoes as the carb element to this dish instead. She was also keen to stress this has more to do with personal preference rather than anything wrong with the makeup of the food.
Across the table, Neil and Kate gave their respective dishes of Guinea Fowl and Sole ‘Murat’ massive thumbs up. Happiness all around then.
Our desserts of Apple Tart Tatin and Dark Chocolate pudding with mint ice cream were both very good, but when stacked up against the outstanding starters and mains, a little less impressive.
Overall, a bloody fabulous meal. We stayed up for some time afterwards drinking, playing cards and chatting. I found it an incredibly novel experience to be able to stagger off beyond the bar, up the stairs to bed afterwards rather than brave the cold and a taxi home.
Waking up, incredibly rested and relaxed, we dressed and headed downstairs to meet Kate and Neil for breakfast, which we ate at a table in the bar and being served by the impressively side-burned owner, Charles.
It seems the relaxed attitude extends to breakfast and you can order anything that takes your fancy, as much tea and coffee as you can drink, help yourself to toasted homemade bread and jams, a full English, locally smoked kippers, porridge…. the best breakfast ever really if you’re a greedy bastard like me.
It was so pleasant, rather than eating up and checking out, we sat and chatted, ate, drank and read the papers for a couple of hours. In the background the smouldering log fire burned lazily . Outside, proving just how rurally located it actually is, a herd of cows wandered past in the road outside, directly past the pubs front door. It really is a magical place to eat and stay at.
I can honestly say The Gurnards Head provided overall one of the best experiences I’ve ever had in a pub restaurant or hotel. The food was truly outstanding, the attitude of the owners and staff is beyond relaxed, they obviously love where they are and what they’re doing and they want you to love it too. I left, even after just one night’s stay feeling totally relaxed and refreshed and wishing I could reap the benefit of spending a week there.
‘The Sunday Sleepovers’ are available from 5th September to 22nd May 2011 and include complimentary tea on arrival, Sunday lunch, dinner, one night’s accommodation and breakfast the next day. For a frankly ridiculous £75 per person.
I urge you to go!!
The Gurnards Head
Nr Zennor
St. Ives.
TR26 3DE
Telephone: 01736 796 928
http://www.gurnardshead.co.uk
